This study examines the historical evolution of Indian Kalamkari, a traditional hand-painted and dyed textile art, under the influence of British colonial trade. Originally, Kalamkari was deeply rooted in religious and cultural narratives, portraying intricate mythological and spiritual themes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. However, the demands of European markets during colonial rule led to a significant transformation of its motifs, favoring floral and geometric patterns aligned with Western tastes. This shift marked the emergence of "calicos", a term widely associated with printed cotton fabrics exported to Europe. To trace these transformations, this research employs a qualitative approach. Extensive fabric observation was conducted to analyze historical and contemporary Kalamkari textiles, identifying visual and technical alterations over time. Findings reveal that colonial intervention diluted the spiritual and cultural essence of Kalamkari, shifting its narrative-driven artistry into a commodified decorative fabric. Many artisans today, often unaware of these historical changes, continue to produce designs influenced by colonial-era calicos rather than traditional mythological themes. This ongoing transformation reflects a broader pattern of cultural erasure, where historical influences continue to shape contemporary artistic practices—often unconsciously. By shedding light on this trajectory, the study underscores the necessity of uplifting Kalamkari’s original identity and fostering awareness among artisans and consumers alike. Recognizing its colonial legacy is crucial for revitalizing authentic Kalamkari craftsmanship, ensuring its survival not just as a decorative textile, but as a cultural artifact with deep historical and artistic significance.

Authors:
Lasya Aji Silpa, Appalachian State University, United States
Manikya Sai Tejaswini Vallabhajosyula, University of North Texas, United States
Barbara Trippeer, University of North Texas, United States

About the Presenter(s)
Lasya Silpa is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Applied Design at Appalachian State University. She emphasize cross-cultural perspectives, building core artistic skills that prepare students for advanced study and professional practice.
https://www.linkedin.com/in/lasyasilpa/
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Lasya-Aji-Silpa

Manikya Sai Tejaswini Vallabhajosyula, MFA candidate at UNT, explores cultural heritage and sustainable fashion. Her thesis, Wrinkles of Heritage, bridges Jaipur’s artisan traditions with modern technologies to create narrative-driven wearable art.
https://www.linkedin.com/in/manikya-sai-tejaswini-vallabhajosyula-b983791b4/
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Manikya-Sai-Tejaswini-Vallabhajosyula-2
https://orcid.org/0009-0003-9822-1070

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